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Thread: XTL1500 blows fuse

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    Default XTL1500 blows fuse

    Have you ever changed the polarity protection diode in a XTL? How did you do it? I have the board out and have stopped to think about it.


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    This might be a good place to start > http://communications.support/thread...?p=256#post256

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roo View Post
    This might be a good place to start > http://communications.support/thread...?p=256#post256
    Thanks, I now have the part number for the diode. I still am not sure the best way to get the diode off the circuit board and mount the new one.

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    Unsolder it with solder wick, remove the part , clean the contacts, install the new part and solder it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Notarola View Post
    Unsolder it with solder wick, remove the part , clean the contacts, install the new part and solder it.
    The diode is surface mount and the lower contact is about 1/16 inch clearance between the large metal body of the diode and the board. No room for Pace tip and wick.

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    Hot air vacuum desolder station is the way to go. If you are working on surface mount components you should really invest in one. Unfortunately, they usually cost a few kilobucks.
    "God as my witness" - Jeremy Dewitte - Felon

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    Tweezers and a heat gun. Be sure to insulate the surrounding components.
    "Don't worry about what I am, cause I'm a state agent so what you need to do is make sure your doing the right thing **** boy" -J. Dewitte

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    Or, try two small pencil-type irons at each end of the part. Lift when the solder melts... If you are going to be doing a lot of SMT work, a hot-air station is one thing you will need, the other is a GOOD (not Radio Shack garbage) very small iron that can get REALLY HOT to remove things quickly before they burn up, and a pair of "electric tweezers", which are heated tweezers that act like the 2-iron solution.

    For the 2nd two, I heartily recommend Metcal equipment, there is no better. They are owned by OK now. They are AMAZING, a tiny element half the diameter of a pencil can FLOW solder onto a whole PENNY in 10 seconds flat! I soldered to a door-knob once as a demo for someone, and no, I don't work for them. They also have very nice heated tweezer and de-soldering options, but most of the desoldering stuff requires shop air to operate. These are one of the few things that reliably will operate on UHF PA's and the like with ceramic substrates.

    Take a look, but you can probably find a complete MX-500 station used for about $300-400 or so, they are nice because it powers two things of solder, desolder, or tweezer type of "wands". The heat temperatures are set by the construction of the tips and vary between 500 and 700 degrees F. They are simply amazing, they are RF pumped at about 40 kHz, and use reflection (SWR) to absorb energy while heating and reflect it when up to temperature, very neat technology. Anyway, I can't say enough good things about them, after you use one for a week or two, you will be spoiled and won't want to ever use anything else again!

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    I use an Oxy Acetylene torch. Works like a charm
    Then just resolder all the parts that fell off the board, take a picture, makes it easier to put parts back on.
    Radio Referenced...Those who think they know it all are very annoying to those of use who do.