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Thread: Thales 25 programming cable construction

  1. #26
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    Yes, that pic is the connection on the Datron. The issue most people may have with building a cable for it as I found out is you need the plug with the spring loaded pins already in it to connect. If you had one of these you could so easily build the cable yourself, which is why most people are looking for an old SPK/Mic that they can convert from?

    I too have not been happy programming this with a serial plug and 3 open wires taped to the connectors on the side of the radio, as I wanted to program it for other things including Analogue Ham and business Digital PMR.


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    Quote Originally Posted by G1JPV View Post
    Yes, that pic is the connection on the Datron. The issue most people may have with building a cable for it as I found out is you need the plug with the spring loaded pins already in it to connect. If you had one of these you could so easily build the cable yourself, which is why most people are looking for an old SPK/Mic that they can convert from?

    I too have not been happy programming this with a serial plug and 3 open wires taped to the connectors on the side of the radio, as I wanted to program it for other things including Analogue Ham and business Digital PMR.
    Can your make-shift cable not be used to program it with what you want? Iím about to try & build my own cable but Iím curious if it will limit me to what data it will transfer...

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by MedicDavid78 View Post
    Can your make-shift cable not be used to program it with what you want? I’m about to try & build my own cable but I’m curious if it will limit me to what data it will transfer...
    Yes David it will no problem, but it looks unsightly and you have to make sure the connection stays while transferring data from PC. I tape the end of wire and then apply pressure with one hand while pressing ok on the CPS screen. Not the most professional but I did get away with it twice??!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by G1JPV View Post
    Yes David it will no problem, but it looks unsightly and you have to make sure the connection stays while transferring data from PC. I tape the end of wire and then apply pressure with one hand while pressing ok on the CPS screen. Not the most professional but I did get away with it twice??!!
    LOL I can totally understand. I’m actually about to try and make my own cable cuz I just stand stand it anymore not being able to program my radio the way I want to with software!
    What I’m about to do is take a piece of Breadboard (an electrical board for wires for those that don’t know), and a prolific cable with the 3 wires already in it, thread the wires thru the breadboard holes & drill a hole in the center for the fastening screw to go into to fasten it to the radio. Then I’m gonna cut the breadboard accordingly to fit the radio port & drop 3 tiny solder pieces under the breadboard where the wires go thru to act as the contacts where the actual springed pins would go on a real connector. All I need is to find a screw to fit the radio hole I should be good. In the photos you can see the breadboard holes line up perfectly with the radio contacts so for all intents & purposes my Frankenstein SHOULD work... I’ll attempt this today and see where it goes, LOL it’s driving me absolutely nuts not having a cable cuz while the FPP is nice you can’t add any new Zones or Channels or fix other things without the software so I’m at a dead standstill til I can get a working cable.
    1889D68C-2426-4466-8E6B-10D03945EC27.jpg 8E09CCD6-181D-4F6F-9C2D-FD4FEC6094D4.jpg

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  7. #30
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    The breadboard idea is where I was at, too. The problem I had is that unless I use the indexing depressions in the radio case, the board will turn on the axis of the screw and the solder blob contacts won't line up.

    Through an instructor I know, I'm try to enlist the help of some students at a vocational school to design and 3D print a shell to hold the board. A student summer project...I'm hopeful a bunch of young brains can come up with something this OF brain can't.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skywave View Post
    The breadboard idea is where I was at, too. The problem I had is that unless I use the indexing depressions in the radio case, the board will turn on the axis of the screw and the solder blob contacts won't line up.

    Through an instructor I know, I'm try to enlist the help of some students at a vocational school to design and 3D print a shell to hold the board. A student summer project...I'm hopeful a bunch of young brains can come up with something this OF brain can't.
    Well, could always put some tape on the top & bottom board when using it with the radio so it stays in place. Or just hold it or something I dunno.

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    Quick question, does the radio have to be put into some type of programming mode before reading/writing and if so how do I do it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skywave View Post
    The breadboard idea is where I was at, too. The problem I had is that unless I use the indexing depressions in the radio case, the board will turn on the axis of the screw and the solder blob contacts won't line up.

    Through an instructor I know, I'm try to enlist the help of some students at a vocational school to design and 3D print a shell to hold the board. A student summer project...I'm hopeful a bunch of young brains can come up with something this OF brain can't.
    Well I tried but I canít seem to get it to work. I took an RS-232 9-pin serial port-to-USB cable, then I cut another data cable that had the 3 wires I needed, soldered 1 end to the inside of the RS-232 circuit board & the other side to a shaped piece of Breadboard, and complete with a center screw for holding down & 3 solder points to act as contacts... So I plug the USB end of the cable into my computer. And while it reads it & tells me which Com Port it is in I keep getting an ďError cannot communicate with radioĒ when trying to read or write. Now this cable is a Prolific cable but Iíve tried several different driver versions with no luck. Maybe the Thales-25 software doesnít like Prolific? Itís driving me nuts...

    2C764FEB-F8EC-4122-904F-406CC7D23E62.jpgA2EC1630-A235-4A7C-96EC-D9F732847BCF.jpg6AE69A29-ADBC-4667-B38A-F274B5E81FA2.jpg

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    I don't know if this is the right cable but I did see this tonight on the Bay, no I'm not seller, but you could ask him or her for better pics $35.


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    Is anyone modding the Cloning cables and selling them ?

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    I have made programming cables from the cloning cables. Sold about 20 of them. The issue is I dont thing the Racal 25 cable connects to your radio.

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    Hi all,

    I've successfully used pogo pins (https://www.adafruit.com/product/2430) to make up ad-hoc programming fixtures. They have needle points and are spring loaded. They can be soldered into the correct positions on the breadboard for the appropriate radio.

    I'm going to resort to them myself for programming my PRC 6894 if I can't track down a cloning cable to modify.

    Regards,
    Phil

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    Phil,

    The cloning cables are still available for the PRC6894/Thales 25/Racal 25. Search eBay for item 272754922110.

    Only because there are sort of two different conversations about programming cables going on in this thread, this cloning cable will not work for the Datron Guardian.

  16. #39
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    Hi Skywave,

    Thanks for the eBay link. The seller doesn't normally ship to Australia. Awaiting a shipping quote. In the meanwhile, I made two programming jigs using pogo pins. The first one by soldering the pins to a strip of prototyping board. The placement of the board was tricky, as I didn't provide a locating tongue for the groove at the top of the connector.

    The second version used a plastic pencil eraser. I marked out and drilled holes for the pogo pins, which were then friction fit in the holes. This worked a treat, as the eraser lay flat against the connector. A strong rubber band around the radio locked it in place.

    If anyone is interested, I can post some photos, along with my protoboard 12 V power shoe. I'm stil in moderation jail, so I'm not sure I can upload them yet...

    Regards,
    Phil

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    Hi MedicDavid78,

    You can test your cable by talking directly to the radio using a terminal emulator. Select one suitable for your operating system, then set it up for 9600 baud, no parity, 8 databits and one stop bit. Make sure you disable hardware handshake.

    With the radio disconnected, temporarily short the pins connecting to serial pins 2 and 3 together and type some characters into your terminal emulator. They should echo back if everything is working. Remove the short, then connect your programming adapter to the radio and type "/ver" without the quotes and hit enter. You should be rewarded with the radio firmware version and other status info.

    If all is working, then you need to troubleshoot the program's settings for the serial interface.

    Best of luck,
    Phil

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    Phil,

    The eraser scheme is interesting. I see where you're going with that idea, but still see if you can post a picture(s).

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    Hi Skywave,

    I'm not sure if I'm allowed to upload a link, but I'll try. The picture also shows my homebrew power connector on the base of the radio as well...

    Regards,
    Phil

    [IMG]/Users/phil/Downloads/IMG_5326.JPG[/IMG]

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil View Post
    Hi Skywave,

    I'm not sure if I'm allowed to upload a link, but I'll try. The picture also shows my homebrew power connector on the base of the radio as well...

    Regards,
    Phil

    [IMG]/Users/phil/Downloads/IMG_5326.JPG[/IMG]
    You can easily and freely post pics to imgur and simply link to the album. Whatever you do, I can tell you that linking to /Users/phil/Downloads on your local machine is not ever going to work...

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    Hi Triptolemus,

    Yeah. I spotted my rookie mistake after seeing the result of the post. It wasn’t clear from the UI if the result was going to be an upload or just a link. Now I know. ;-)

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    Hi Skywave,

    Woohoo! I can post pictures now. ;-)

    If you are still interested, here is the link to the T25 test jig

    T25-jig.jpg

    The pencil eraser with the pogo pins is held onto the radio with two rubber bands. The test clips on the end connect to TXD, RXD and signal ground respectively on the RS-232 cable.

    I sketched out the pin locations on the contact face of the eraser, then drilled them with a fine drill bit. By drilling on the contact face, I didn't have to resort to a drill press for precision. I then pushed the pins in via the contact face using a wooden pusher so as not to damage the spring loaded contact points. I aligned the top of the eraser with the locating notch, then drew guidelines to the connector edges, as the pins are not visible for alignment when the eraser is snug with the radio.

    The same technique should work fine with the Datron.

    It has proved quite robust and reliable. I can re-purpose it for either key fill or access to the auxiliary serial port by drilling new holes. :-)

    p.s. The monstrosity on the base is my improvised power adapter. Until I can hunt down some dead batteries to refurbish, I'll have to content myself with bench testing.

    Regards,
    Phil

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    I'm about to order some Thales 85303 cloning cables for my Thales PRC6894. I intend to keep one intact for cloning, and modify the others for programming, etc.

    I'm looking at this e-bay listing (thanks Skywave for the link), which appears to describe the correct cables, but the picture shows the locking screw in the center of the connector, implying it is for the Liberty.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/272754922110

    My google-fu has not come up with a definitive answer and I haven't yet earned enough permissions to access the treasure trove of documentation and software in the sticky thread.

    An older T25 user manual I found shows the pre-locking screw connectors with a wide shoe, implying they also cover the remote antenna connector.

    Can anyone confirm that the cable part number 85303 is for the T25 and not the Liberty?

    Regards and thanks in advance,
    Phil

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    I made my programming cable for the Thales 25 from the cable listed in the same auction. Just use the end without the resister, you'll have no problems.

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  26. #48
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    I have made about 20 programming cables from the cloning cable. Works great, just remember to remove the resistor from the one side. I posted a couple pics on what you have to do. https://communications.support/threa...920#post105920
    If anyone has made keyload cables can you please post. Thanks

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    Hi all,

    Quick update on my T25 journey. My T25 cloning cables will be arriving in a few days. I intend to keep one for cloning and modify the second into a programming cable and key fill cable. I have a short-list of Motorola VHF antenna models that include the 2 meter amateur band. I am now actively looking for some dead battery packs for rebuild.

    I have managed to track down a copy of the Thales25 PC Programmer version 5.0, the combination flash updater for version 8.3 on 503+ and 5.13 for 501, and the November 1999 service manual.

    My PRC6894s are both model 505 and have version 8.3 firmware pre-loaded. Both bodies look brand new, so I figure they were service spares. The bad news is that they appear to have no features enabled. :-(

    For now, I'm happy to tinker around with the versions of software and documentation I currently have until I earn the right to access the T25 treasure trove.

    In the meanwhile, is version 5.0 the latest PC programmer software, and if not, are there any gotcha's for using older versions on the version 8.3 radios?


    Thanks in advance,
    Phil

    p.s. If this post is drifting off-topic, I'm happy to shift the conversation to another thread...

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    A quick heads-up. eBay seller, Buyhitek is out of T25 cloning cables. I found out the hard way, as I ordered 4 of the new style ones, and only managed to get 1 new, and two old (clip, no thumbscrew).

    Anyone know a source for the thales thumbscrew head-shell conversion kits?

    Regards,
    Phil