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Thread: Thales 25 Batteries

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    Default Thales 25 Batteries

    Just want to check if it's possible for someone living outside the US to purchase batteries (OEM or third party) for the Thales 25?

    I know many shipping companies frown upon lithium batteries. Otherwise, I guess I'm stuck 2W power and AA battery clam shell.


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    I've purchased a few T25 batteries recently from these guys and they might ship to the UK. Cost around $106US each. http://epos.geminicomputersinc.com/s...64-li&x=13&y=6

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    Hi,

    Just for info, in my search for Thales 25 batteries, I also contacted gemini as suggested above, the price is correct $106 US, but the shipping to the UK is prohibitive, they quoted between $85 and $100 shipping per battery!, they have to be shipped as 'dangerous goods' apparently.

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    I just received 3 Thales 25 batteries from Gemini. Order was shipped direct from Honeywell in Florida and was delivered in 4 days.
    All 3 batteries arrived without any charge but charged up to 100% without issue using the standard box charger from Thales.
    I have used one for several days and it still has 50% charge. Seems to have good capacity.
    Highly recommend the Honeywell battery available from Gemini.

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    I wonder if the Daytron Guardian portables which seem to be selling on Ebay contain the one wire chip between its XTS battery and the Thales 25 chassis that lives within .

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    I purchased one of those Datron Guardian Handie's from Ebay US Seller, Radio only but connected up my battery from my XTS stock and it works perfect. What does the one wire chip assist with? my problem is finding any Programming cables and speaker mics for them.

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    The cost of shipping just put me off. Maybe a forward shipping company can do it cheaper if they declare or pack it differently.

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    Quote Originally Posted by G1JPV View Post
    I purchased one of those Datron Guardian Handie's from Ebay US Seller, Radio only but connected up my battery from my XTS stock and it works perfect. What does the one wire chip assist with? my problem is finding any Programming cables and speaker mics for them.
    The one wire chip in IMPRES batteries can drive the Datron Guaradian nuts, weird sounds on TX audio, excessive current drain...that stuff.
    Aftermarket (non-iMPRES) batteries don't have this chip. I use a non-OEM XTS Battery LiON on my Guardian and it's fine. No problems. But put any Motorola OEM such as a NNTN6034 and it makes all kind of weird sounds while keyed up.
    Your streaming makes me AES-256. Keep it up and you'll soon have nothing to listen to.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MTS2000DES View Post
    The one wire chip in IMPRES batteries can drive the Datron Guaradian nuts, weird sounds on TX audio, excessive current drain...that stuff.
    Aftermarket (non-iMPRES) batteries don't have this chip. I use a non-OEM XTS Battery LiON on my Guardian and it's fine. No problems. But put any Motorola OEM such as a NNTN6034 and it makes all kind of weird sounds while keyed up.
    That's actually the same for the XTS3000 as well. It never had the impres circuitry either so occasionally a true impres battery will cause squealing, humming, and all matter of nonsense to TX. A bit of electrical tape solves the issue quickly.

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    I used to have that issue with smart batteries for the HT750 series, the radio was reading the battery from the center pin and causing the charger to freak out. Either turning on the radio as it went into the charger and turn it off, or a bit of tape on the center battery contact going to the radio cuts off the "smart" data. This will work if you can put the
    battery in the charger without the radio and have it work, but when the radio is attached it fails. Kind of a similar problem...

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    Saw a clamshell on eBay that takes 10x CR123 lithium batteries. Will these allow the radio to transmit at full 5W or still restricted to 2W?

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    Link? We never made one so I would be interested to see it

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    Quote Originally Posted by radioinstl View Post
    Link? We never made one so I would be interested to see it
    Here's one:

    https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/183805017297

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    That is not for a Thales 25

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    Quote Originally Posted by radioinstl View Post
    That is not for a Thales 25
    Okay, I think I just made a fool of myself.

    Thank you for bringing that to my attention. I somehow got confused with PRC148 and PRC6894.

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    I have the clamshell battery holder and it does not enable 5w tx. It also slowly discharges the 10 cells over a couple of weeks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MTS2000DES View Post
    The one wire chip in IMPRES batteries can drive the Datron Guaradian nuts, weird sounds on TX audio, excessive current drain...that stuff.
    Aftermarket (non-iMPRES) batteries don't have this chip. I use a non-OEM XTS Battery LiON on my Guardian and it's fine. No problems. But put any Motorola OEM such as a NNTN6034 and it makes all kind of weird sounds while keyed up.
    On an XTS5000 IMPRES battery, which contact passes the smart-battery data to the radio? Someone mentioned covering 1 of the leads with electrical tape, any idea which lead it would be on an OEM IMPRES batt? Thanks!

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    This is directly from XTS5000 DSM:

    DSM.png

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    Quote Originally Posted by pks View Post
    This is directly from XTS5000 DSM:

    DSM.png
    Okay thank you much. Looks like the middle contact would be the one to cover up. Much appreciated, Ill give it a try.

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    Quote Originally Posted by G1JPV View Post
    I purchased one of those Datron Guardian Handie's from Ebay US Seller, Radio only but connected up my battery from my XTS stock and it works perfect. What does the one wire chip assist with? my problem is finding any Programming cables and speaker mics for them.
    I purchased a Datron Guardian from a vendor at Dayton Hamvention in 2018. Sweet radio actually. As far as programming cables, you will probably never find one. I had to make my own using a DB9 connector and a Cat 5 ethernet cable. The pinout for programming is exactly the same as the Thales/Racal T25... bottom three pads.

    Because of the lack of a programming cable, I've taken my Cat 5 cable and used rubber bands and finger pressure to secure the wire ends to the radio housing while programming. It's super janky, but it works.

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    Can anyone confirm that the T25 GTS batteries also have the charging socket?

    If so, do they have an onboard charge controller, or do I have to use the Thales charger?

    Regards,
    Phil

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil View Post
    Can anyone confirm that the T25 GTS batteries also have the charging socket?

    If so, do they have an onboard charge controller, or do I have to use the Thales charger?

    Regards,
    Phil
    They don't have a charger adapter...they use the standard Thales charger.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil View Post
    Can anyone confirm that the T25 GTS batteries also have the charging socket?

    If so, do they have an onboard charge controller, or do I have to use the Thales charger?

    Regards,
    Phil
    They do not have a charging socket. I bought one this summer, it took awhile to get as they were out of stock. I am charging mine in the Thales square cube charger with the turquoise lock. They seem to be good batteries.

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    Hi Splinter,

    Thanks for the reply.

    Unfortunately, I don't have a Thales charger. If any one has details on the contact pinouts on the base of the battery, or (better still) a schematic, it would be appreciated.

    Regards,
    Phil

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil View Post
    Hi Splinter,

    Thanks for the reply.

    Unfortunately, I don't have a Thales charger. If any one has details on the contact pinouts on the base of the battery, or (better still) a schematic, it would be appreciated.

    Regards,
    Phil
    The chargers are still out there and easy to find. If you want the "mobile" charger with the lock like Splinter has, it is the Thales 23386 - still on eBay.
    The "desktop" charger is the Thales 1600426 still found on eBay as well.

    Both use a standard 12VDC barrel jack wall wart. The OEM ones have a twist-lock type connector on them to keep them from popping out the back but a standard 5.5/2.5mm jack wall wart with positive center will work.

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