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Thread: XTL5000 O3 - never really turns off

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    Default XTL5000 O3 - never really turns off

    I've got a reasonably legitimate (not whored or dirty-flashed) XTL5000 O3 which was a convert from a dash-mount O5. After install, it was observed that the vehicle's battery was discharging at an alarming rate. A little probing found the answer... the XTL drawer unit, whether powered down by the power button on the head or by the ignition wire (if programmed), would continue drawing just a hair under 1A. The current consumption appears identical to what happens if you switch the red wire on a remote O5 setup... the drawer is left 'idling'.

    I've messed with the programming quite a bit - set the control head required for powerup option, disabled or mandated ignition control, etc. Nothing I've done has any effect.

    The radio is running R17.01.00, but I've seen other O3s running 17.01 with no problems whatsoever.

    Anyone have a suggestion? If I put an O5 head on this thing, it seems to behave normally... and it continues misbehaving with a different, known-good O3 head.


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    And to make things more odd... I moved everything (TIB, head, cables, UCM/carrier, etc.) over to a new drawer. No problem. So the issue must be somewhere in the drawer itself...

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    Sounds like a par-blown protection diode. I seem to recall there was another thread around here on that subject but spikes from the alternator or vehicle voltage regulator can partially blow the diode so it is leaky and draws lots of current but still basically works OK. This diode is directly across the 12V B+ input on the radio and is backward to cut the fuse in case it's hooked up reverse polarity. You can safely remove it for a quick test to see if that's the problem, but I wouldn't recommend leaving it out after determining whether it's the problem or not.

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    Hmm... left running for a while, that deck got fairly warm in one specific spot - which I didn't think much of at the time, but certainly would fit your theory. I've swapped things around to get the user going... but I'll throw a head on that deck in the next week or two and take a look at that diode. If that's the culprit, it should be a simple fix.

  5. #5
    jim202 No Longer Registered

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    Quote Originally Posted by tvsjr View Post
    And to make things more odd... I moved everything (TIB, head, cables, UCM/carrier, etc.) over to a new drawer. No problem. So the issue must be somewhere in the drawer itself...

    Let me ask a dumb question here. There is a small red wire (same size as the yellow) from the control head accessory power connection. Is the red wire being switched off with the yellow wire from an ignition source? If so, you need to keep +12 volts on the red wire all the time. If not, the radio goes into a funky mode and pulls about 700 ma from the heavy PA red wire feed. Go read the install manual. It will tell you the same thing.

    If you do have the red wire connected to +12 volts all the time, then you have a problem with the radio.

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    Jim,

    The OP states that it's an "XTL5000 O3 (HHCH) which was a convert from a dash-mount O5" so there's no CHIB to connect to?
    Andrew

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    The O3 only has the main transceiver and a red "ign" wire into acc connector.

    It does not have two power wires like the O5 control head does

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    Quote Originally Posted by jim202 View Post
    Let me ask a dumb question here. There is a small red wire (same size as the yellow) from the control head accessory power connection. Is the red wire being switched off with the yellow wire from an ignition source? If so, you need to keep +12 volts on the red wire all the time. If not, the radio goes into a funky mode and pulls about 700 ma from the heavy PA red wire feed. Go read the install manual. It will tell you the same thing.

    If you do have the red wire connected to +12 volts all the time, then you have a problem with the radio.
    Yes, I'm very familiar with how to properly wire a remote O5 control head. However, I'm having a hard time locating the red and yellow wires on my O3 head... which is what the problematic radio/configuration has.

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    Default Check Programming

    I have seen this many times before. Check your programming. Two items need to be set or you will see about 700MAH draw constantly. Make sure you set in radio wide check control head required for power up. Second is a odd and confusing to some in radio wide advanced set ignition to required. I know the other options seem correct but so far we have seen this is the only way to prevent the constant current draw. I have seen quite a few "hacked" codeplugs and not one had any impact on this issue so don't sweat that. Poke into the program and check, I think you will find the answer there. I am assuming the ignition wire and B+ are correctly connected to the vehicle. With the XTL radio's try not to jump into a hardware failure before you check the program. Our county programs every radio wrong and still follows Motorola's directions. We just keep going behind them and correcting the error. Good luck

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    Quote Originally Posted by commsec View Post
    ~ Make sure you set in radio wide check control head required for power up. ~ Good luck
    I have to say here, use this option with caution!

    If for whatever reason, you find you've lost control head sync (having to replace the CH for example) the radio will not power up because it doesn't see a CH and because the radio won't power up, the O3 HHCH doesn't either, meaning you can't sync it... the old catch 22! What's worse is that you can't read or write the codeplug to correct this either, the only solution is to retro-fit an old W-Series CH which will allow the radio to boot up, then correct that setting in CPS and then hopefully you will be able to sync the Odyssey CH?

    I have an XTL5k O3 remote sitting here with this exactly problem and so I would NOT use this setting myself, and frankly I don't see how it would effect your problem since you're not disconnecting the CH every time you turn the radio off anyway?

    But as commsec said... Good luck
    Andrew

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    Default Good Point

    I have to admit I lost the O3 part of the problem. Above is correct, do not check "control head required for power up" if you have the O3. I see so mostly O5 radios set up wrong because the O3 radios we maintain the customer wipes the program before we get it and puts it back when they get it back. In the case of the O3 just make sure the selection for ignition is "required". Then just make sure the ignition lead is connected to a switched source, that should clear it up. Having our heads so far into the high tech part of the radios can cause us techs to miss the low tech solutions. Let us know if this works so others can refer to the post when they are faced with it, it happens a bunch because the terminology concerning ignition control is somewhat confusing to some (even a few high tech guys make the same error like in my county).