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Thread: What Power Bank For Vehicle Use

  1. #1
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    Default What Power Bank For Vehicle Use

    I have an amateur radio hotspot for DMR that I have been using mobile. I also keep an AT&T Netgear Nighthawk M1 Mobile Router in the vehicle. I am considering buying a power bank so I can use the hotspot and mobile router when the vehicle is parked, without having a dead vehicle battery when I return. What size power bank should I consider? The Nighthawk does have an internal battery, but I may remove it, if I add a power bank to the vehicle.


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    The short answer is there are too many variables right now. If you can provide the current draw and time period suggestions can be made. If your running an inverter that load needs to be calculated. Once you have that info the rest is basic math.

    EG: load of 1.5Ah for 8 hours = 12ah. Add in the fact the universe is not 100% efficient (with the exception of Canada) and a 15Ah battery should suffice. I would go to 20Ah for a real good safety factor.

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    Default What Power Bank For Vehicle Use

    Quote Originally Posted by Notarola View Post
    ...the universe is not 100% efficient (with the exception of Canada)...
    Holy crap, Canuckland is only 10% efficient! I have seen video of Bob and Doug drinking beer. They looked efficient. After all, that IS how they found the mouse in the bottle of beer, right?

    Anyway, thanks for your thoughts.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nRr96lpsw-Y

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  5. #4
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    I would get a Red fuel or NOCO Lion jump start kit with USB ports.
    Dual use!!!!!!! I use those damn things for everything,, and on occasion jump starting..LOL, Charge last forever.
    Radio Referenced...Those who think they know it all are very annoying to those of use who do.

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    My car has a lithium ion battery for weight savings and BMW advises against hooking anything up to continuous power, or the battery itself. My switched power shuts off 3 minutes after the doors lock, so I needed a stable source of 12v power for my LED light.

    I ended up settling on this https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Re...ronics&sr=1-12

    It'll run a Cuda Trioptic 6 pack (which isn't too efficient) for around 6 hours.

    It has both 12v and USB out, and will charge when the car is running, then run for 4-6 hours when the car is off. I've got mine wired to a spare switched fuse under the trunk. The Y cable is power in/out.

    There's a larger one available as well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YRZYLKV...dDbGljaz10cnVl

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    Default What Power Bank For Vehicle Use

    Quote Originally Posted by moetorola View Post
    I would get a Red fuel or NOCO Lion jump start kit with USB ports.
    Dual use!!!!!!! I use those damn things for everything,, and on occasion jump starting..LOL, Charge last forever.
    That is interesting that you posted that. We now have a Rugged Geek RG1000. (It might be the Rugged Geek RG1000 Safety Gen2 because it came with a case.) Anyway, I have jump started vehicles with successfully. It looks like I need to compare the Red Fuel, NOCO, Rugged Geek and some others to one another to see if I can pick one.

    Thank you for the post

    https://ruggedgeek.com/pages/portabl...-street-models

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    Default Daisy Chaining Device To USB Ports For Power

    Follow up question related to this. Lately, I have been using the digital hotspot and cellular hotspot in my vehicle and each is powered up separately, with it's own USB cable. The Nighthawk Netgear MR1100 has one USB-A port and the amateur radio digital hot spot has four USB-A ports. I am having a heck of a time finding out if I can daisy chain one to the other for power. I assume that I can't cause any damage by under powering either of those devices, but I suspect the devices might also not work properly, either, if they are under powered.

    Should I try daisy chaining one to the other or simply run separate power cables?

    As a side note, I sometimes find it frustrating whne I check the so called specifications of certain devices and the specs don't even list what I really want or need to know.

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    Is there a particular reason for daisy-chaining the devices? The first cable will have to carry the total current for all devices and it will have to be drawn from only one USB port. As noted, the devices could be under-powered due to current limitations and/or voltage drop. The combined demand might exceed the current rating of the single port, causing it to fail either immediately or prematurely over time.

    If it is a question of routing the cables, there are 12 volt powered chargers that have multiple charging ports that make it possible to use shorter cables to individual devices while having only one cable feeding the charger.

    To collect the necessary data, consider one of the inexpensive in-line USB digital meters that read current and voltage. This should help one make informed decisions.