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Thread: MCS2000 Programming & FLASH Cable

  1. #1
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    Default MCS2000 Programming & FLASH Cable

    Hello. [cowthief]

    The MCS2000 Flash Cable (for doing flashport/firmware upgrades) on Batboard/Batlabs is incorrect.

    It's extremely simple to build. Attached is a schematic and the pinout.

    SmartRIB required for firmware upgrades.


    Code:
    SRIB                MCS
    
    1  GND              4   DIGITAL GND
    6  BUSY             5   BUSY
    11 BUS-             18  BUS-
    12 MOBILE B+        14  SW B+
    15 BUS+             6   BUS+
    3  SCI RX+          20  I/O 4
    10 VPP              21  I/O 3
    14 MOD CNTL         19  SCI RX DATA
                        9/10 Bridged (MCS side only -- this is EMERGENCY + GROUND, a normally-closed switch)

    Schematic credit: http://www.agh-technik.bravehost.com...k.html#MCS2100

    I built this cable and have flashed several MCS2000s with it. Confirmed working.

    You MUST run a fused ignition line on Pin 15 on the MCS end of the cable. Otherwise things will not work properly.
    Attached Images Attached Images


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  3. #2
    MODAT No Longer Registered

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    Just confirming, the pinout contained in the "code" dialog box is incorrect and the schematic is correct? Reason I ask is the pinout for rib line 1 in the "code" dialog differs from the schematic. Also does the ignition line just need to be hooked up to 12/13.8 volts and is the fuse in line essential?

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    Quote Originally Posted by N6LAU View Post
    Just confirming, the pinout contained in the "code" dialog box is incorrect and the schematic is correct? Reason I ask is the pinout for rib line 1 in the "code" dialog differs from the schematic.
    You are correct. There was an error in the "code" box, and I have fixed it. Please accept my apology for any inconvenience it may have caused anyone.

    Also does the ignition line just need to be hooked up to 12/13.8 volts and is the fuse in line essential?
    No, you need to run a line out to the ignition of your car, and bring it into the shop so you can program the radio. :P :P (clipping it to the + lead on the same power supply is all that's required)

    A fuse is recommended for obvious reasons.

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mars View Post
    No, you need to run a line out to the ignition of your car, and bring it into the shop so you can program the radio. :P :P (clipping it to the + lead on the same power supply is all that's required)

    A fuse is recommended for obvious reasons.
    Man, I wish you would have posted this before I removed the ignition from the car and brought it into the radio room... :P

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    Anyone having the latest MCS2000 firmware and willing to share?
    I dare to ask since this radio isn't supported by "big M" anymore

    Thanks!

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    Thanks a lot, Magnus!

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    Medic21 No Longer Registered

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    Thanks for posting the diagram. Found my issue. Works great now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MODAT View Post
    Just confirming, the pinout contained in the "code" dialog box is incorrect and the schematic is correct? Reason I ask is the pinout for rib line 1 in the "code" dialog differs from the schematic. Also does the ignition line just need to be hooked up to 12/13.8 volts and is the fuse in line essential?
    I've got a question(and feel free to consider me a complete moron as you address it...):

    How would any of you go about adding the pins 9-10 jumper as well as the pin-15 13.8 line on the sealed MCS2000 flash cable? Is there some kind of DB-25 piggyback thing? (I'm hoping to avoid making a new cable if possible) An easy solution is escaping me at the moment...
    Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scratchy View Post
    I've got a question(and feel free to consider me a complete moron as you address it...):

    How would any of you go about adding the pins 9-10 jumper as well as the pin-15 13.8 line on the sealed MCS2000 flash cable? Is there some kind of DB-25 piggyback thing? (I'm hoping to avoid making a new cable if possible) An easy solution is escaping me at the moment...
    Thanks.
    I've never actually seen the factory Moto MCS flash cable before, but I'm assuming it would be designed properly?

    If making a homebrew cable like I did, simply open up the DB25 hood and add the jumper (MCS end of cable) and the pin 15 lead for ignition sense. If there's hot-melt glue or plastic moulding, simply cut/melt it away and make your connections.

    The 9/10 jumper (normally closed connection) and pin 15 ignition sense are mandatory. They cannot be omitted. Especially if upgrading a radio in the field which is parked on a TRS or conventional system with active monitoring of emergency button activations. You will drive a dispatcher/comm center nuts if the emergency alarm gets transmitted, but no one acknowledges it.

    Also, if flashing a radio in the field, make sure the radio is powered down before removing/connecting to the bottom connector on the MCS. Yanking the accessory plug off while the radio is on, will open the emergency switch and do what I just described.

    Just sayin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mars View Post
    I've never actually seen the factory Moto MCS flash cable before, but I'm assuming it would be designed properly?

    If making a homebrew cable like I did, simply open up the DB25 hood and add the jumper (MCS end of cable) and the pin 15 lead for ignition sense. If there's hot-melt glue or plastic moulding, simply cut/melt it away and make your connections.

    The 9/10 jumper (normally closed connection) and pin 15 ignition sense are mandatory. They cannot be omitted. Especially if upgrading a radio in the field which is parked on a TRS or conventional system with active monitoring of emergency button activations. You will drive a dispatcher/comm center nuts if the emergency alarm gets transmitted, but no one acknowledges it.

    Also, if flashing a radio in the field, make sure the radio is powered down before removing/connecting to the bottom connector on the MCS. Yanking the accessory plug off while the radio is on, will open the emergency switch and do what I just described.

    Just sayin.
    Yeah, it's one of those rubber-coated, very nearly-hermetically sealed things. It works fine for a lot of MCS radios but on others it inexplicably doesn't. I'm familiar with flashing most M radios for the last 20-odd years; I was just trying to say I might be ignorant of any recent developments in gerryrigged (sp?) cable technology..... I'm going to revisit testing the pins on it but I'm betting it may be inevitable I have to fabricate a cable.