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Thread: Motorola RICK

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    Default Motorola RICK

    I have read all of what I could find in regards to the rick on the internet. I am interfacing to radius mobiles together and I have taken out the fuse on the TX radio for ignition sense. Now when I press the set up button the setup light emits and supplies power ignition sense to the TX radio. My question is and I'm sorry if this is a stupid question I'm just trying to learn and don't want to blow anything up. Is the set up light supposed to stay on? When I push the setup button again the light turns off along with the tx radio.


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    Setup means the repeater is active. Both radios should remain on at all times. Why did you set the TX radio for ignition sense?
    "God as my witness" - Jeremy Dewitte - Felon

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    Quote Originally Posted by com501 View Post
    Setup means the repeater is active. Both radios should remain on at all times. Why did you set the TX radio for ignition sense?
    If setting the TX radio doesn't make sense, I was going off information I was reading on BatLabs. I wanted to toy around with the remote Takedown feature, and on BatLabs under the info for the rick it says to remove F801 aka JU801 for remote takedown/setup. The other thing that I understand from reading is that the rick gets its power from the rx radio, the strange thing before I cut one of the leads on the fuse the RX radio would not turn off by the switch, it would just stay on unless I turned the power supply off.

  4. #4
    Will No Longer Registered

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    You DO NOT need to make any mods to the radio. The obsolete/dammed R.I.C.K. is a poorly designed item.

    To make a reliable hookup OMIT the power wire, pin 13 in the transmitter radio cable, this eliminates blowing fuses in the radios.

    Some of the R.I.C.K. info on Batlabs and Repeater Builder is incorrect.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Will View Post
    You DO NOT need to make any mods to the radio. The obsolete/dammed R.I.C.K. is a poorly designed item.

    To make a reliable hookup OMIT the power wire, pin 13 in the transmitter radio cable, this eliminates blowing fuses in the radios.

    Some of the R.I.C.K. info on Batlabs and Repeater Builder is incorrect.
    Thanks Will.. I take most of the info I read on BL and RB with a grain of salt anyway

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    I just realized that this is the longest I've ever spend reading a thread which I don't know (or care) anything about.

    Ever.

    I'm not sure what to say about that avatar...

    Might have to re-read the thread and gather my thoughts.
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    Jim
    "Prepare: The time to win the battle is before it starts." - Frederick W. Lewis

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    I read KC2OBWs threads just for the AVATAR!!
    "God as my witness" - Jeremy Dewitte - Felon

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    Quote Originally Posted by com501 View Post
    I read KC2OBWs threads just for the AVATAR!!
    Every once and a while I catch my self re-reading my own threads as well, haha

  9. #9
    vk2hwy No Longer Registered

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    Quote Originally Posted by Will View Post
    You DO NOT need to make any mods to the radio. The obsolete/dammed R.I.C.K. is a poorly designed item.

    To make a reliable hookup OMIT the power wire, pin 13 in the transmitter radio cable, this eliminates blowing fuses in the radios.

    Some of the R.I.C.K. info on Batlabs and Repeater Builder is incorrect.
    I plugged in an ID-O-Matic II (for the morse ident) into the back of the RICK. As a matter of fact you don't even need the RICK, the ID-O-Matic does it all, it's cheap and it's an easy wire up.