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Thread: XTL 5K Control Head Issue

  1. #1
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    Default XTL 5K Control Head Issue

    I have another question for all you geniuses out there. I was installing an XTL 5K in an unmarked truck. After the install, I powered everything up an it worked just fine. I did tests with the control center and everything was working fine. After a day, the control head stopped working. It will not power on. I read the brick and it read and programmed just fine. I tested the power going to the control head and it is getting power. So, I put another control head on (one that I know is working) and it still would not power on. I took the control head (the working one) back to the unit it came and it won't work on that one either. I cannot sync the control head without it working so I'm in a bit of a dilemma. I am open to suggestions...

    Thanks in advance

    Mike


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    Check the fuse on the ignition sense line.

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    The ignition sense line is not connected. I checked the pins for the control head and there is power going to the pins... this one has me stumped

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    I just checked the pins and they are getting 11.95 volts dc so its safe to say that the control head is getting power but not powering up. If I need to buy a new control head I will; however, if it is going to fry another control head then whats the point?

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    Welcome to my world... I have two XTL5000's that I can't sync and I've already fried an O5 trying, although this sounds like a different issue?

    The only thing you can do is eliminate the variables, remove the brick (only) from the vehicle and test it in another (or bench test), it may go into maintenance mode but at least you'll know if it powers up the CH?

    If that fails you know the fault is in the brick (and you may now be up for 2 new CHs but at least you'll have your answer), if it works then the problem must be in the cabling or power supply?

    You mentioned 11.95 VDC, I assume that's without the engine running as it should be around 13.8 VDC with the alternator charging? A defective regulator may see your alternator output 18+ volts which is great for a little extra brightness from the headlights but generally not recommended for electronics!
    Andrew

  6. #6
    KJ90210 No Longer Registered

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    Bigfella ... had this sync problem on an XTL but I changed the soft ID to 'Titanic' and now it's syncing ...

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    Well i have another cable lying around, I'm going to try that out to see if thats the issue. Seriously? changing the soft ID permitted it to sync???

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    Quote Originally Posted by KJ90210 View Post
    changed the soft ID to 'Titanic' and now it's syncing ...
    AH-HAH! (slaps knee)

    Try the veal folks, he'll be here all week...